A 21 day journey from the sparkling Côte d’Azur, through Provence, the Luberon Ranges and Avignon to the mountainous area of the UNESCO listed Cévennes National Park. Meet the owners, designers and sculptors of the many & varied private and public gardens. Enjoy the fine art and culinary delights of the region. View the gardens in colourful spring, including the wildflowers at the National Park

Landscapes, Art and Gardens of the Côte d’Azur, Provence and the Cévennes National Park


Menton – 4 nights

Day 1: Sunday 8 May, Arrive Nice – Transfer to Menton
•Introductory Meeting
•Welcome Evening Meal

On arrival at Nice’s airport, participants taking the ASA ‘designated’ flight will transfer by private coach and travel west along an awesome coastline where the pre-Alps plunge almost sheer into the sea, to the port town of Menton. If you are travelling independently, you should meet the group at the Hotel Napoléon, Menton. Note: private transfers from the airport to the hotel can be arranged through the hotel’s concierge, please contact ASA for further information. For the next 5 nights we stay at the 4-star Hotel Napoléon, located just across the road from the beach and only a ten-minute slow walk to the old town of Menton. In the hotel’s private off-street courtyard, an exotic garden designed by Eric Ossart and Arnaud Maurières hides a small paved area. For Ossart and Maurières, hotel gardens “must be able to satisfy each client’s need for privacy and yet welcome people in groups. As much as the interior decoration, the gardens participate in the overall feel of the place and must be designed around an original idea or theme. Finally, they must be attractive in all seasons, whether as places to relax in or simply to be seen from windows”. This evening we enjoy a welcome meal at a local restaurant overlooking Menton’s Garavan Bay. (Overnight Menton) D

Day 2: Monday 9 May, Menton
•Jardin Exotique Val Rahmeh
•Guided tour of Menton including the Salle des Mariages
•Jean Cocteau Museum, Menton

We start the day with a visit to the sub-tropical botanical garden of Val Rahmeh, laid out in 1905 for Lord Radcliffe, Governor of Malta. In 1957 Miss May Sherwood Campbell acquired the property and a second garden, now accessed by a bridge, and created a pond with water hyacinths, water lilies, and papyrus. In 1966 she donated her property to the nation, and today it is owned by The French Museum of Natural History. A guided tour will reveal a wonderful array of lush plantings. Menton occupies a natural amphitheatre dominated by Mount Agel and the Gorbio and St. Agnes Heights. Ruined fortresses clinging to its surrounding cliffs testify to the town’s deep, turbulent history. Here we shall study the work of one of the coast’s greatest creators, the famous artist and film-maker Jean Cocteau. Cocteau first came upon Menton in 1955 while vacationing at Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. He fell in love with its high-cliffed coastal charms and began the next year, at the request of the mayor, to redecorate the town hall’s Salle des mariages with frescoes and furnishings all with a theme of ‘Love’. Nearby we also visit the new Jean Cocteau Museum which includes 990 works by Cocteau. All of the artist’s key periods are represented, from the first self-portraits of the 1910s up to the “Mediterranean” period towards the end of his life. There are drawings, prints, paintings, ceramics, tapestries, jewellery, books and manuscripts and 172 photographs relating to Cocteau. There are also works by fellow artists Picasso, Modigliani, Di Chirico and others. (Overnight Menton) B

Day 3: Tuesday 10 May, Menton – Villefranche-sur-Mer – Beaulieu-sur-Mer – Menton
•Villa Santo Sospir, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat (exclusive private visit)
•Villa Les Cyprès, Villefranche-sur-Mer – SCAPE DESIGN garden by James Basson (private garden by special appointment)
•Villa La Papaline, Beaulieu-sur-Mer – SCAPE DESIGN garden by James Basson (private garden by special appointment)

This morning we travel to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat to visit the private Villa Santo Sospir, a charming home decorated by Jean Cocteau during his stay in 1950. The villa was at that time owned by Cocteau’s friend, Francine Weisweiller, who had asked him to stay in the Côte d’Azur. Cocteau made a lasting impression of the villa, taking his paintbrush to various walls around Ms Weisweiller’s home. Cocteau returned frequently to the villa to make films, paint and write up until his death in 1963. We will be able to tour both the house and the gardens. After lunchtime at leisure in Villefranche-sur-Mer we meet with James and Helen Basson who have kindly arranged to show us two examples of their work. James Basson has worked in the South of France for over 14 years. With his company Scape Design, he has established a reputation for creating low maintenance, dry gardens that mix contemporary design with traditional skills. They create timeless sustainable landscapes that are sympathetic to the natural environment, using young plants that are compatible with the native climate and soil, requiring little if any, irrigation. In 2013 Scape Design was awarded Gold medal and Best garden in the ‘Fresh Garden Category’ at the Chelsea Flower show; and it received two major awards at the 2014 Philadelphia Flower Show for its most innovative and unique design. Our first visit is the garden of Villa Les Cyprès, a ‘dry-garden’ in Villefranche-sur-Mer. ‘Designed for this prestigious villa, the brief was to have no irrigation and low maintenance. We had to find a solution that would create a unified approach to the 3 individual properties whilst maintaining privacy for the interconnected spaces. The planting consisted of over 500 species that were laid out in bands of grey and green foliage with specific heights depending on the band, relevant to shade or sun. The idea was to create as quick a ground cover as possible, planting closer than normal, accepting that some plants will be out grown by others but that maintenance would be reduced due to the fact that the ground cover is established in the first year. The clean-cut simplicity of the pool, and crisp edging of the paving contrasts with the complexity of the planting.’ In Beaulieu-sur-Mer we are able to view the garden of Villa La Papaline, another private, traditional garden. ‘The brief was to create a traditional garden using lawn, beds, proportions and sight-lines. Old materials were desired to create a garden that felt as if it had been there for centuries. There are a series of fountains and bassins that bring water from the top of the garden to the pool. A temple at the summit of the garden, formal box parterres and lines of lavender, Iris and agapanthus add to this formal effect.’ (Overnight Menton) B

Day 4: Wednesday 11 May, Menton
•Clos du Peyronnet, Menton
•Serre de la Madone, Menton
•Dinner at Restaurant Mirazur, Menton

This morning we visit one of the garden highlights of the region, the Clos du Peyronnet. Created by Mr and Mrs Derick Waterfield (and still tended by their son’s nephew), the Clos du Peyronnet was established around a Belle Époque Italianate villa in the Garavan (gardé du vent: ‘sheltered from the wind’), on terraces between vertical cliffs and the sea. The villa façade has been engulfed by a wisteria sinensus (Chinese Wisteria). Oreopanax, catalpa and jacaranda give way to a wet grotto, terraces of heat-loving plants such as hibiscus and solanum, architectural cypresses, and a water garden designed to afford glimpses of the Mediterranean below. This afternoon we visit Serre de la Madone, designed in the 1920s by Lawrence Johnston, creator of the world-famous Hidcote Garden in the Cotswolds, England. Johnston was interested in acclimatising a large variety of exotic species to this inimitable environment. La Serre de la Madone is a secluded paradise with double curving steps, fountains, pools, classical statuary, green garden rooms, a Moorish patio and orangeries for tender exotic plants. Johnstone employed 12 gardeners to tend his 7 hectares of terraces that boast an almost bewildering variety of plants from throughout the world. This evening we dine at the Restaurant Mirazur, which enjoys spectacular views of Menton’s old town and harbour. Michelin-star chef Mauro Colagreco excels in original Mediterranean-style dishes, using wild herbs, edible flowers and the freshest vegetables obtained from the restaurant’s garden. (Overnight Menton) BD

Nice – 4 nights

Day 5: Thursday 12 May, Menton – Villefranche-sur-Mer – Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat – Beaulieu-sur-Mer – Nice
•Chapelle Saint-Pierre by Jean Cocteau, Villefranche-sur-Mer
•Villa Ephrussi, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
•Villa Grecque Kérylos, Beaulieu-sur-Mer

This morning we drive out to Cap-Ferrat, a narrow peninsula extending far out to sea. Our first visit is to the Chapelle Saint-Pierre, painted by Jean Cocteau at Villefranche. The ornamentation of the Chapelle Saint-Pierre, a jewel of the modern symbolist art, was a dream cherished for a long time by Cocteau that he finally realized in 1957. He superintended the ceramicists and stonecutters who worked on his project. The chapel evinces a simple, humble fervor reminiscent of small Romanesque churches. It simultaneously represents St. Peter’s life, the village dear to Cocteau’s childhood, and the artist’s friendship for the fishermen to whom the chapel was dedicated. The road to Cap-Ferrat offers wonderful views of the Mediterranean. The Cap itself was one of the most fashionable resorts of the twentieth century and is associated with such luminaries and eccentrics as Somerset Maughan, who lived in the Villa Mauresque, and Léopold II of the Belgians, who established the world’s most important private botanical gardens there. In 1926, Baroness Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild chose a site here for her enormous villa and garden – Villa Île de France. The eclecticism of her garden, named after the famous ship and tended during her residence by gardeners in sailors’ uniforms, reflects the syncretic mix of styles that made the Riviera an important avant-garde centre in the early twentieth century. We shall take a guided tour of the villa’s first floor that includes terracotta sculptures by Clodion, a Meissen China Room and a Tapestry Room whose furniture by Jacob is upholstered with Beauvais tapestries. We shall then tour the villa’s seven exquisite gardens which include patios, waterfalls, ponds, floral borders, shady walks and rare species of trees. The garden ensemble comprises Florentine, Spanish, formal French and exotic gardens, as well as rose and rock gardens. After lunch in the villa’s tearoom, we visit the Grecian Villa Kérylos, one of the most extraordinary sites on the French Riviera. It was built in the early 1900s, in the Belle Époque era, and is a unique and extremely luxurious re-creation of an ancient Grecian dwelling, complete with wall decorations and furniture. It was built as the tribute to Greek civilization by two great Hellenophiles, Théodore Reinach, an archaeologist and patron of the arts, and the architect Emmanuel Pontremoli who based the design on the remains of noble houses from the 2nd century BC on the Island of Delos. Everything inside, from the arrangement of rooms to the details of the décor, was designed to recreate the atmosphere of a luxurious Grecian villa. From the garden around the villa there are fine views of the Cap-Ferrat peninsula, dotted with magnificent mansions. The garden contains a pleasing mixture of typically Greek plants: olive trees and vines, pomegranate and carob trees, acanthus and myrtle, oleanders and irises, pine and cypress trees, palm trees and papyrus which all help create a Grecian look and feel in the bright Mediterranean sunshine. We then head for Nice where the evening will be at leisure. (Overnight Nice) BL

Day 6: Friday 13 May, Nice – Opio – Châteauneuf-Grasse – Nice
•La Casella, Opio (private garden by special appointment)
•Lunch at Restaurant Le Mas des Géraniums, Opio
•Jardin de la Villa Fort France, Châteauneuf-Grasse (private garden by special appointment)

Our first visit is to the garden of La Casella, a stylish pavilion located on the site of an old Jasmine farm. The garden was created by Tom Parr and his partner Claus Scheinert, and is a wonderful example of a late 20th-century garden combining Provençal, English and Italian styles. Here, Parr created a series of flower-filled rooms that became a benchmark of simple grandeur. The gardens themselves, under Scheinert’s astute direction, have become more structurally ambitious, lusher, and more romantic with every season. It is a garden of parallel, raised terraces with each terrace more perfect than the last. Laurus nobilis has been sculpted into rows of obelisks, walls clipped from Italian cypress and yew. Old-fashioned roses form one terrace in a planting framed by lavender. The house, integrated with the garden, is colored terra-cotta and planted with white wisteria. Tom Parr, who died aged 81, was one of England’s leading postwar decorators (a term he proudly preferred to “interior designer”), working first with David Hicks and then for 35 years at Colefax and Fowler, of which he became chairman. Parr decorated for a legion of worldwide clients, from Dame Vivien Duffield to members of the Ford dynasty and Château Latour. Many of his clients became lifelong friends, among them the Duke and Duchess of Beaufort at Badminton, where Parr was to achieve some of his finest work. It was at this house that for a decade Tom Parr endured the debilitating effects of Parkinson’s disease. He died on 29 July 2012, and is survived by Claus Scheinert, who will welcome us and show us the garden. We lunch among olive, fig and lime trees at Le Mas des Géraniums, a typical Provençal farm located on Opio’s hill. In this peaceful and beautiful setting, we shall enjoy a light lunch prepared by the owners Colette and Michel Creusot. Just a short drive away is the garden of Villa Fort France. The original owners, Lady Winnifred Fortescue and her husband Sir John, an archivist and military historian, bought it in 1935. Lady Fortescue wrote a best-selling account of her struggles to create her home there entitled Perfume from Provence, which was illustrated by A.A. Milne. She followed this success with two further books written when she moved to Opio: Sunset House and Trampled Lilies (which recounts her time during the war years). The rose garden she created was expanded to form the current garden by Jeanne Gruniaux, who continued to advise the present owners Pierre and Valérie de Courcels until her death. The de Courcels have added their own deft and artistic touches to create a lovely garden full of colour, much of which comes from a superb use of annuals (poppies, larkspur, love-in-the-mist and aquilegia plus a sweet pea hedge). (Overnight Nice) BL

Day 7: Saturday 14 May, Nice – Tourrettes-sur-Loup – Saint-Paul de Vence – Vence – Nice
•Domaine du Prieuré, Tourrettes-sur-Loup (private garden by special appointment)
•The Maeght Foundation, Saint-Paul-de-Vence
•Matisse’s Chapelle du Rosaire, Vence

Today we drive through some of the finest scenery in the south of France. We first travel up to Tourrettes-sur-Loup, where we visit the private garden of Joanna Millar, recently acclaimed as ‘the grand dame’ of Riviera gardening. Joanna’s roses will be in full flower, as will the irises that she grows in serried ranks among a fine collection of other native and exotic plants.

Then we drive to Saint-Paul de Vence, built on a rocky outcrop and surrounded by ramparts overlooking the coast. Fortified in the sixteenth century, it remained beautifully intact and began to attract artists such as Russian painter Marc Chagall who moved here in 1966. A host of famous artists and writers were drawn to the beauty of the surrounding area and its exceptional light. Later it also became a favorite ‘hang-out’ of film directors and French and international stars such as Yves Montand and Simone Signoret.

After some time at leisure for lunch and to walk around the narrow and picturesque streets of Saint-Paul de Vence, we visit the Marguerite and Aimé Maeght Foundation, which hosts an exceptional collection of twentieth-century works. André Malraux, then Minister of Cultural Affairs, inaugurated the Foundation on July 28th 1964. It is a unique example of a private European art foundation. This architectural ensemble was entirely conceived and financed by the Parisian art dealers Aimé and Marguerite Maeght to display modern and contemporary art in all media. Painters and sculptors collaborated closely in the realization of the complex with Catalan architect Lluis Sert by creating works, many of them monumental, that were integrated into the building and its gardens: the Giacometti courtyard; the Miró labyrinth with sculptures and ceramics; mural mosaics by Chagall and Tal-Coat; a pool and stained glass window by Braque, and a Bury fountain. We shall enjoy its collection of paintings, sculptures, drawings and graphic works by artists such as Bonnard, Braque, Calder, Chagall, Giacometti, Léger, and Miró.

We return to Nice via the town of Vence, noted for its Chapelle du Rosaire, conceived and created by Henri Matisse. From 1943 to 1949, an ailing Matisse settled in Vence and employed a young nurse, Monique Bourgeois, who became his confidante and model. In 1946, the young woman entered the religious Order of the Dominicans and was ordained Sister Jacques-Marie and shortly after persuaded Matisse to design the chapel for her community. The result is a unique masterpiece, which Matisse worked on for 4 years (1948-1951) to elaborate the plans of the building and all the details for its decoration, stained glass windows, ceramics, stalls, stoup, cult objects and priestly ornaments. For Matisse this work was ‘the fruit of [my] whole working life. In spite of all its imperfections [I] consider it as [my] masterpiece’. (Overnight Nice) B

Day 8: Sunday 15 May, Nice – Cap d’Antibes – Antibes – Nice
•Scenic drive Cap d’Antibes
•Château Grimaldi – Musée Picasso, Antibes
•Provençal Food Market, Cours Masséna, Antibes
•Matisse Museum, Nice

This morning we tour the Cap d’Antibes, a beautiful peninsula with a winding road that reveals stunning views around every corner; we shall take in the grand panorama at the highest point of the cape, the Plateau de la Garoupe. We visit the port town of Antibes, which attracted many writers, such as Graham Greene, Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald as well as artists like Picasso. Our walking tour includes a visit to Antibes’ Provençal food market on the Cours Masséna. We also visit the Château Grimaldi, a mix of twelfth and sixteenth-century architecture, which houses the Musée Picasso. Picasso used the castle as his studio for a time in 1946. In addition to his paintings, there’s a fine collection of the master’s ceramics. After lunchtime at leisure in Antibes we drive just out of Nice to Cimiez, site of a small Roman city. It is more famous, however, for its museum devoted to France’s greatest modern painter, Henri Matisse, who lived in Nice from 1917 to his death in 1954. We shall view the paintings in the museum that span his career, from the very early Still Life with Books (1890) to his Rococo Armchair (1947) and Blue Nude (1952). (Nice) B

Aix-en-Provence – 3 nights

Day 9: Monday 16 May, Nice – Fréjus – Bouc-Bel-Air – Aix-en-Provence
•Jardin la Pomme d’Ambre, Fréjus (private garden by special appointment)
•Les Jardins d’Albertas, Bouc-Bel-Air (private garden by special appointment)

This morning we drive to Fréjus, built upon the remains of an ancient harbour where Octavian (Augustus) moored ships captured from Cleopatra’s fleet at the Battle of Actium. Our main interest is not Fréjus’ Roman remains, however, but the Jardin la Pomme d’Ambre of Madame Nicole Arboireau, chief exponent of the Provençal cottage garden. Nicole Arboireau’s garden contrasts vividly with the foreigners’ gardens you have hitherto encountered. She has set herself the task of nurturing the Provençal tradition of the small garden in which local plants are propagated. We will explore this lovely small domain, learning much about the traditions of gardening in this region, and enjoy a delicious Provençal buffet, prepared by Nicole herself. Nicole’s delightful book Jardins de Grands-Mères describes the gardens of grandmothers, with their special secrets revealed. Following our visit, we continue to Aix-en-Provence where we shall be based for the next three nights. En-route we shall visit Les Jardins d’Albertas at Bouc-Bel-Air. The city of Aix-en-Provence occupies a site previously inhabited by Celts, Greeks and Romans. It rose to prominence as capital of the County of Provence and then the royal city of the House of Anjou. Under René of Anjou it was a centre of Italian and French culture. Absorbed by the French monarchy at the end of the fifteenth century, it became the home of the Parlement de Provence, a status it lost during the French Revolution. The Marquis Jean-Baptiste d’Albertas, first president of the Provence Audit Office, decided in 1751 to create a garden to the south of the city at Bouc-Bel-Air. The craze for gardening in mid-eightenth century France meant that the domain was laid out before the house. In fact, this country retreat never gained its house. The garden, which includes a kitchen garden, is laid out somewhat like Villandry in the Loire. Its formal parterres have a profusion of sculpture set against powerful vistas. It has been maintained since the eighteenth century by the Albertas family, which has taken great pains to maintain its original state. (Overnight Aix-en-Provence) BL

Day 10: Tuesday 17 May, Aix-en-Provence – Valensole – Aix-en-Provence
•Clos de Villeneuve, Valensole (private garden by special appointment)
•Atelier Cézanne, Aix-en-Provence
•Orientation walk of Aix-en-Provence

This morning we drive north of Aix to the Clos de Villeneuve, Valensole. This bastide was constructed in the first half of the eighteenth century. Jean-Baptiste de Villeneuve, seigneur of Esclapon, who was descended from an ancient Provençal family, laid out its basic form. His garden still occupies three terraces with seven basins and fountains from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The present owner André de Villeneuve, has, over the last 30 years, created the present garden on the original terraces, around the early basins. Parterres planted in the tradition of the French formal garden, an alley of 100-year-old chestnut trees, a huge basin on the lowest terrace, and a view beyond to purple lavender plantations, form a magnificent ensemble, along with colourful roses and richly aromatic sage, thyme and other Provençal herbs. There are fruit and olive trees at every level, and remarkable walls constructed of round stones from the Valensole Plateau. Monsieur André will show us his garden and host us for lunch. In the afternoon we drive back to Aix to the Atelier Cézanne, which was the base from which this most careful and methodical of artists made excursions to paint in the countryside. When the weather was bad he worked in the atelier, painting his famous still lifes. One of the most interesting aspects of this museum is that it still has many of the objects Cézanne collected and used as subjects for these still lifes: a table, a short ladder, a high easel, a potbellied stove, a sofa, a few chairs, the items seen here were the only furniture present in the closed world of Cézanne. A few locally decorated vases, a ginger jar and an olive pot, a fruit bowl, a plate, a glass, a bottle of rum, three skulls, and a little plaster cupid by François Duquesnoy are among the smaller objects made so famous in his works that are in the atelier’s collection. Dickens visited Aix, Provençal poet Frédéric Mistral went to school and Marcel Pagnol attended university there, and it was Émile Zola’s home town. As a boy he became friendly with Cézanne, and the two enjoyed long excursions where Paul would paint and Émile would write. Our day ends with a guided orientation walk of Aix. (Overnight Aix-en-Provence) BL

Day 11: Wednesday 18 May, Aix-en-Provence – Cucuron – Aix-en-Provence
•Pavillon de Galon, Cucuron (private garden by special appointment)
•Lunch at La Petite Maison de Cucuron, Cucuron
•Afternoon at leisure

This morning we travel north of Aix-en-Provence to the Pavillon de Galon, a restored eighteenth-century hunting pavilion, surrounded by vines, orchards, cherry and olive trees. At the foot of the Luberon mountains and facing south, its grounds are secluded yet have stunning views all around. Its gardens, which boast a colourful mix of lavender and clipped hedges, have been awarded the status ‘remarkable garden’ by the French Ministry of Culture and Environment. We next drive to the preserved medieval village of Cucuron in the heart of the Luberon National Park, home to La Petite Maison de Cucuron, a delightful restaurant run by Michelin-star Chef Eric Sapet, which has a reputation as one of the finest restaurants in Provence. Located on the central square in the shade of hundred-year old plane trees, the Petite Maison serves traditional Provençal dishes made with fresh market produce. After lunch, we return to Aix where the remainder of the day is at leisure. (Overnight Aix-en-Provence) BL

Avignon – 6 nights

Day 12: Thursday 19 May, Aix-en-Provence – Bonnieux – Ménerbes – Avignon
•Le Jardin de La Louve (She-Wolf), Bonnieux (private garden by special appointment)
•Le Clos Pascal, Ménerbes (private garden by special appointment)
•La Carméjane, Ménerbes (private garden by special appointment)

This morning we cross the Luberon mountain range to the picturesque village of Bonnieux, set atop craggy cliffs, where we shall visit the garden La Louve (She-Wolf). Nicole de Vésian began restoring her Provençal terrace garden on the lower fringe of this medieval town in 1987. Here the former fashion stylist designed house and garden in harmony with the natural surroundings, producing a result with the concision, beauty and elegance of a Frank Lloyd Wright prairie house. Since Nicole’s death in 1996, this tiny spot has become one of the most photographed gardens in the world. While La Louve was already dearly loved, the publication of Louisa Jones’ book, Modern Design in Provence (2011), only fanned the flames. Nicole also created several other gardens which are less well-known. In the Luberon hills, beneath the perched village of Ménerbes, we visit Clos Pascal, a little-known work by the famous Nicole de Vésian. Long, gentle terraces, cloud-clipped shrubs lead up to a potager garden and a small vineyard. La Carméjane, owned by Mr & Mrs Coxe, is located on the edge of the village. The rose-covered terrace reached from the house has amazing views of the rural landscape. The lower terrace has cherry orchards, a potager for the family and a new restored area planted with olive trees. In the late afternoon we continue our journey through the Petit Luberon (the name given to the western end of the range) to Avignon. (Overnight Avignon) B

Day 13: Friday 20 May, Avignon – Sorgues – Avignon
•Papal Palace, Avignon
•Pont Saint-Benezet, Avignon
•Afternoon at leisure in Avignon
•Château de Brantes, Sorgues: garden tour, Provençal dinner and classical music concert

Avignon, one of Europe’s most interesting and beautiful medieval cities, is sited majestically on the banks of the Rhône. Its historical importance and great monuments are due to its status as a papal city between the fourteenth and the eighteenth centuries; it reverted to the French crown in 1761. This morning we will visit the castle that served as a palace fortress for the seven popes whose sojourn in France between 1309 and 1377 came to be called by opponents ‘the Babylonian Captivity’. For the following 400 years it was the residence of the papal legate. This massive complex has some rooms that are masterpieces in their own right, such as the grand hall, the great kitchen, with its single huge chimney spanning the whole interior, and the papal bedroom with its painted walls depicting a great vine set against a blue background. Near the Papal Palace is the Pont Saint-Benezet, the famous bridge described in the popular children’s song, Sur le pont d’Avignon. Bridges were vital to medieval pilgrimage and Saint-Benezet, who built the bridge between 1177 and 1185, founded a company of bridge-builders to serve this purpose. Now missing a number of spans, the original 900 metre-long wooden structure was repaired and reconstructed – in stone – many times before half the bridge collapsed into the Rhône in the mid-1600s. Following an afternoon at leisure in Avignon we shall make our way to the Château de Brantes, located just outside the village of Sorgues, for a special evening tour and reception. The garden, which has the oldest magnolia tree in France (1780), was designed by the Danish landscape architect Mogens Tvede in 1956. The château, listed as a historic monument in 1987, is surrounded by an extensive plane-tree wood, and features a series of basins through which flows the river Sorgues. After a guided tour through the park and garden, we enjoy an al fresco Provençal buffet dinner, followed by delightful classical music concert given under the magnolia tree by a duo of professional harp and flute musicians. (Overnight Avignon) BD

Day 14: Saturday 21 May, Avignon – Eygalières – Noves – Avignon
•Mas Benoît, Eygalières (private garden by special appointment)
•Atelier and garden of Marc Nucera, Noves (private garden by special appointment)
•Les Confines – designed by Dominique Lafourcade, Noves (private garden by special appointment)

Today we are privileged to meet with Marc Nucera, renowned tree sculptor and ‘shaper’. Marc started his career as the student and disciple of the professor, sculptor and then garden designer and Land Art practitioner Alain-David Idoux. Although Idoux died tragically young, he left behind a legacy of ground-breaking design. Our day begins with a visit to the private gardens of Mas Benoît, located close to Eygalières, in the foothills of the Alpilles. The garden surrounding this traditional Provençal farmhouse or mas lies on a low hill with the magnificent backdrop of the Alpilles in the distance. It is considered a leading example of contemporary Mediterranean landscape art by Alain-David Idoux, with lavender wedge, almond spiral, rock river and oak groves sculpted by Marc Nucera. We next travel to Noves, just south of Avignon, to meet Marc Nucera at his atelier and experimental garden ‘Le Terrain’. Son of a furniture maker, Marc Nucera trained as a tree pruner, commencing with the rehabilitation of old olive orchards. In the 1990s, working with land artist, Alain-David Idoux, Marc began to evolve his own style. Local garden designers, including the legendary Nicole de Vésian, creator of La Louve (She-Wolf) garden in Bonnieux, gave help and encouragement. Nucera’s love of trees is reflected in the way he brings out the existing character of each individual plant, highlighting their best features so that they both enhance and give coherence to the surrounding landscape. He sculpts living trees, favoring natives such as almonds, green and white oaks, and the remnants of cypress hedging often found on old farmsteads. He also gives new life to dead trees by turning them into furniture and sculptures, either still in the ground or positioned near their place of origin.

“A garden is first and foremost a work of art, with the gardener playing the roles of architect, sculptor, musician and painter in turn. A garden should move visitors, setting all their senses aquiver” – Dominique Lafoucade.

This afternoon is dedicated to visiting Les Confines, one of Provence’s most famous gardens. This is Dominique Lafourcade’s own garden, which she and her architect husband have restored over the last twenty years. Seeing the garden as an extension of the house, Dominique sets out to tell “a story with plants, trees and flowers … and the wind as the backdrop”. She transformed a wheat field with a few plane trees and ancient oaks into an exuberant Italianate garden, where the five senses are constantly stimulated. Doted with cypress pillars, clipped topiary hedges, arches and squares, her famous garden lay-out and perspective are supported by a long rill flanked by olive trees planted in huge Medici terracotta pots flowing into a water-lily pond. (Overnight Avignon) BL

Day 15: Sunday 22 May, Avignon – L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue – Gordes – Apt – Avignon
•Sunday Market, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
•Scenic drive to Gordes
•La Chabaude (private garden by special appointment)

We depart early this morning, and travel 30kms west of Avignon to visit the Sunday market of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. This large market is a food market, flea market, and antique market where you can buy everything from olives to Fine Art. The town itself stretches across the Sorgue River, earning it the nickname “Venice of Provence”, and makes a very lovely backdrop to this large market with its shade-providing plane tress, babbling river, historic waterwheels, and flower-filled riverside cafés and restaurants. The town is famous for being a big hub for antique dealers and is the second largest antique centre in France (after Paris). Having collected some ingredients for a picnic lunch we continue our journey through the Petit Luberon. This scenic drive takes us to the village of Gordes, perhaps the most picturesque of the perched villages. The houses of Gordes rise in picturesque tiers above the Imergue valley on the edge of the Vaucluse plateau. The stone buildings built in tight against the base of the cliffs and those perched on the rocks above, including the 12th century castle, are made of a beige stone that glow orange in the morning sun. A short drive across the valley takes us past Rousillon, a village that stands on the highest hill between the Coulon valley and the Vaucluse plateau. These striking hills, composed of ochre rock of 16 or 17 different shades featured in the local houses, enhance the beauty of the village and the surrounding countryside. Continuing 10kms west through the Luberon mountain range we reach La Chabaude, a beautiful stone manor sitting on twenty acres near the market town of Apt. The gardens designed by owner and landscape architect Philippe Cottet are an emerald masterpiece which include sculptural boxwoods, sycamore trees, towering topiaries and fragrant rosemary and lavender. In the late afternoon we return to Avignon where the evening is at leisure. (Overnight Avignon) B

Day 16: Monday 23 May, Avignon – Pont du Gard – Arles – Avignon
•Pont du Gard
•Museum of Antiquities (Musée de L’Arles Antique), Arles
•Theatre and Amphitheatre, Arles
•Saint-Trophime and its cloister, Arles

Today we travel a short distance to visit the Pont du Gard, one of the best preserved of all Roman aqueducts. Its survival testifies to the building skill of the Romans, for the massive blocks of which it is fabricated have remained in place despite the fact it is a dry stone construction (without mortar or cement). Then we continue our travel to visit Arles and experience the fascinating history of this Provençal town with its Roman monuments. Our first visit is to the splendid Musée de l’Arles Antique. Inaugurated in 1995 the museum features a wonderful head of Caesar and a 31m long Roman boat which was discovered beneath the Rhône in 2011. Provence takes its name from the fact that it was the oldest non-Italic ‘province’ (provincia) of the Roman Empire outside Italy. Arleate (now Arles), a major Roman city, was built to protect the vital estuary of the Rhône. This colonia was given a typical gridded street plan that can still be traced in the centre of the city. It had an important amphitheatre, which in the Middle Ages became a castle but is now used for bullfights, and a theatre, now used for festivals. Arleate was a major centre of early Christianity and produced a number of very important martyrs who were buried in its great cemetery, Alyscamps. Among these was Saint-Trophime, whose Romanesque basilica has one of the finest porticoes in Provence, with a porch modeled on a Roman triumphal arch. (Overnight Avignon) B

Day 17: Tuesday 24 May, Avignon – Saint Etienne du Grès – Saint-Rémy-de-Provence – Villeneuve-lès-Avignon – Avignon
•Le Petit Fontanille, Saint Etienne du Grès (private garden by special appointment)
•Mas Theo, the Provençal garden of Pierre Bergé at Saint-Rémy-de-Provence (private garden by special appointment)
•Abbey of Saint-André, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon: Royal Abbey and garden

This morning we visit Le Petit Fontanille, the private garden of Mrs. Anne Cox Chambers near Saint Etienne du Grès. Le Petit Fontanille is the work of several English garden designers, Peter Coates, Rosemary Verey, and more recently Tim Rees. The garden merges perfectly into the hills, the woods and olive groves of the surrounding countryside and its success lies in its combination of a profusion of native plants with exotics that are compatible with the climate. Here the design is all about lines; olive trees form a horizontal mass against the verticality of the Italian cypresses. A highlight of our tour is a visit to Saint-Rémy where we visit Mas Theo, the town courtyards of fashion magnate Pierre Bergé, lifelong companion of Yves Saint Laurent. Named after the brother of Vincent Van Gogh (the artist lived for a year at the nearby asylum), the gardens were created in 1992 by Michel Semini, a sought-after landscape architect whose clients included many Parisian fashion and film people. We then drive to Villeneuve-lès-Avignon to visit the royal Benedictine Abbey of Saint-André and its magnificient terraced garden. Restored at the end of the seventeenth century by the King’s architect Pierre Mignard, the abbatial palace has retained its elegantly vaulted rooms, grand entry doors and monumental staircase. The terraced gardens offer stunning views of the Popes’ Palace in Avignon across the Rhone River. They are covered with old roses, Mediterranean natives, and century-old olive and pine trees planted among the remains of Romanesque style churches and tombs dating as far back as the sixth century. At the entrance of the abbatial palace lies a parterre garden in sixteenth-century Tuscan style, decorated with ponds, vases and sculptures, and bordered by a pergola covered with wisteria and roses. (Overnight Avignon) B

Florac – 3 nights

Day 18: Wednesday 25 May, Avignon – Uzès – St Quentin la Poterie – Florac
•Wednesday market of Medieval village of Uzès
•Jardin de la Noria, St Quentin la Poterie

Our journey continues 15kms north-west of Avignon to the pretty village of Uzès, home to one of the most colourful markets in the south of France. The Wednesday morning market, located on the Place aux Herbes, specializes in produits du terroirs (regional products and specialties) where you can find creamy goat cheese, garlic olives, fragrant herbs, pots of thyme-flavoured honey, bread and even small jars of snail and shallot spread! Here we shall buy fresh produce before continuing to the Jardin de la Noria where we shall enjoy our picnic lunch. Inspired by the remains of an ancient water wheel (noria) and the theme of the paradise garden, this contemporary garden was conceived by Arnaud Maurières and Eric Ossart, whose work we have already encountered at the Hotel Napoléon. The creators wanted to reconcile tradition and modernity, respecting the rural site of Mas de Licon and the traces of the surrounding ancient agricultural landscape, whilst adopting a resolutely modern vocabulary. Since 2007, this garden has become an artistic dialogue between brutalist concrete (béton) and landscape, with concrete sculpture, furniture and other ‘folies’ placed in grasslands. We then drive to our friendly family hotel in the picturesque village of Florac at the very centre of the Cévennes National Park, where we shall stay for the next three nights. We dine in the hotel restaurant L’Adonis, whose owner and chef Martial Paulet will serve dishes with the best local seasonal produce. The hotel is situated on the escarpments of the Causse Méjean close to the awesome Gorges du Tarn, Mont Lozère et du Mont Aigoual. Robert-Louis Stevenson became enamored of this awesome region and spent much wandered through it. (Overnight Florac) BLD

Day 19: Thursday 26 May, Florac – Mont Lozère – Finiels – Pont de Montvert – Florac
•Orientation walk in Florac
•Mont Lozère scenic drive
•Pont de Montvert

We spend the next two days exploring the Cévennes National Park in the company of local expert mountain guide Anne Nourry, Vice-President of the Association Sur Le Chemin de Robert Louis Stevenson. The Cévennes, now a UNESCO-listed National Park, was and still is one of the wildest areas of France, with mountains and deep gorges. Ninenteenth-century travellers like Robert Louis Stevenson visited isolated villages that seemed locked in the past, with a tradition-bound, conservative culture. Many peasants of the Cévennes, like much of the population of southern France, had converted to Protestantism in the sixteenth century. When Louis XIV revoked the Henry IV’s Edict of Nantes (1685), which had assured Protestants the right of free worship, the Cévenne Huguenot Camisards revolted (1704-1712); their revolt is called the Camisard Revolt. When Stevenson trekked through the area, Protestantism was again tolerated, but the deeply conservative people of each Cévenne village adhered universally either to the Protestant or Catholic cause. Intermarriage between Catholics and Protestants was strictly forbidden and offenders would be cast out of both villages. Stevenson, a Scot, was himself a Protestant, and both the geography of the Cévennes with its barren rocky heather-filled hillsides, and the history of religious strife that lay over the land, were familiar to him. Today’s program will combine coach touring with easy rambles through the countryside and to small, medieval villages. We shall be able to imagine the area as Robert-Louis Stevenson saw it, with its wilderness scenery of rugged escarpments, deep valleys, small streams and a host of pretty wildflowers. After an orientation walk in Florac, we take a scenic drive to the summit of Mont Lozère which is the highest peak in the Cévennes National Park. It offers some stunning natural scenery and is covered by coniferous plantations and ‘broom’ scrub moorland. A short walk will enable us to view the Pic de Finiels which rises at 1699m. The distinct geological zones that make up the Cévennes National Park sustain different types of landscape, which have all been shaped by human activity. Mont Lozère is a granite massif scattered with typical reliefs called felsenmeer (block fields). Water is omnipresent in springs, peat bogs and rivers. The bare crests are summer pastures for great flocks of sheep. Mont Lozère bears the signs of ancient human occupation: menhirs, Gallo-Roman vestiges, etc. Following our lunch in the small village of Finiels, we drive to the Pont de Montvert (870m altitude), located at the base of the south-facing slopes of Mont Lozère. Le Pont de Montvert is a pretty granite village that is named for its hump-backed bridge (en dos d’âne) that spans in a single arch the swift-flowing Tarn. The bridge is guarded by a defensive tower at the village end, now with a less bellicose function: it holds the village clock. Medieval in aspect, the bridge and tower date to the seventeeth century. The bridge is well known as one of the places that Robert Louis Stevenson stopped during his famous Travels with a Donkey and now forms one of the stopping points along the popular trail that follows his original route. (Overnight Florac) BLD

Day 20: Friday 27 May, Florac – Gorges du Tarn – Gorges de la Jonte – Florac
•Boat excursion, Gorges du Tarn
•Belvédère des Vautours (Vulture Lookout), Gorges de la Jonte
•Farewell Evening Meal

This morning we focus on the great Gorges du Tarn, an impressive canyon cut by the Tarn through the harsh limestone plateaux (causses) south of the Massif Central. We shall drive along the gorges and then take a boat excursion down the Tarn as it winds through the most spectacular section of the valley. Starting from La Malène, we board small flat-bottomed boats and make our way down the river in the crisp morning light through Les Détroits, the most beautiful and narrowest section of the canyon, between towering vertical cliffs of up to 400 metres, and end at the Cirque des Baumes (baume meaning cave), where the gorge widens forming a magnificent amphitheatre. Following a picnic lunch we travel to the western edge of the park, where the Gorges du Tarn meets the Gorges de la Jonte. Here we visit the Belvédère des Vautours, an interpretive centre and viewing point for the many vultures that nest in the gorge, mostly Griffon Vultures, but now also Black Vulture. With the aid of national park officers, we may view their nests, and watch individuals and groups perched on the dramatic gorge walls. Two decades or so ago these giant airborne scavengers were almost extinct in the Cévennes. Now, thanks to a successful reintroduction program, some 75 pairs breed in the national park. Following a majestic aerial ballet performed by 30 or so vultures we return to our hotel and enjoy a farewell meal together. (Overnight Florac) BLD

Day 21: Saturday 28 May, Florac – Nîmes TGV Station
•Dinosaur footprints, St-Laurent-de-Trèves
•Corniche des Cévennes

This morning we drive out of the Cévennes National Park. Our journey takes us past the little hamlet of St-Laurent-de-Trèves, situated on a rocky outcrop with magnificent views. Dinosaur footprints have been discovered here, dating back 200,000 years when the region was a limestone swamp. A short walk around the site reveals a number of footprints, which are amazingly clear. From here we continue our journey south along the scenic Corniche des Cévennes, past the village of Saint-Jean-du-Gard and on to Nîmes’ TGV station, where you will be able to take a train to your airport or next French destination. B

  • ASA Cultural Tours- Landscapes, Art & Gardens of the Côte d’Azur, Provence & the Cévennes National Park 2016. Itinerary and reservation application Download

An absolutely extraordinary 21 days in gardens of the most diverse range – varying in type, size, development history. They were formal and informal, new and old, and the geography, soil, climate, rainfall made each unique. Every garden had its own special focus. The tour was breathtaking – and very often I felt I was in Paradise.
Ted Schultz

AUD $9980.00 Land Content Only – Early-Bird Special: book before 30 June 2015

AUD $10180.00 Land Content Only

AUD $1880.00 Double (as single) Supplement

For competitive Economy, Business or First Class airfares and/or group airfares please contact ASA for further information.

Tour Price (Land Content Only) includes:
• Accommodation in twin-share rooms with private facilities in 3-4 star hotels
• Meals as indicated in the tour itinerary where: B=breakfast, L=lunch & D=evening meal
• Drinks at welcome and farewell meals. Other meals may not have drinks included.
• Transportation by air-conditioned coach
• Airport-hotel transfers if travelling on the ASA ‘designated’ flights
• Porterage of one piece of luggage per person at hotels (not at airports)
• Lecture and site-visit program
• Entrance fees
• Tour Notes
• Use of audio headsets during site visits
• Tips for the coach driver, local guides and restaurants for included meals.

Tour Price (Land Content Only) does not include:
• Airfare: Australia-Nice, Nîmes-Australia
• Personal spending money
• Airport-hotel transfers if not travelling on the ASA ‘designated’ flights
• Luggage in excess of 20 kg (44 lbs)
• Travel insurance
• Visas (if applicable)